The domaine started bottling its own production in the 1920s, after the current marquis’s grandfather, Sem d’Angerville, stood up to the negociants’ corrupt blending practices. As a result, and in defiance, his became one of the first Burgundy domaines to estate-bottle their wines.
At just under 15 hectares of some of the greatest vineyards in Volnay, now three generations of the family have been producing wines that in the words of Clive Coates are “exemplary: pure, terroir specific, elegant and intense.” Today the estate is led by Guillaume d’Angerville, is farmed immaculately, and is producing some of the best wines in the entire Côte d’Or.
At the pinnacle of the estate is the Clos de Ducs. An official act from the early 16th century lists this parcel of 52 ouvrées worked in the old Domain of the Dukes of Burgundy. The ouvrée, the traditional unit of surface in Burgundy, represents the surface area that a vine grower could take care of himself in one day. There are about 24 ouvrées in one hectare. A true clos, enclosed by stone walls on all sides, the Clos des Ducs covers an area of 2.15 hectares, identical to the original 52 ouvrées worked in the 16th century. The soil is calcareous, stony, poor, rather deep, and very clayey (white marl). The perfect southeast exposure guarantees ideal sunshine, and the very steep slope of the vineyard allows for excellent drainage.
Vinification is the same for all of the domaine’s premier cru wines. The grapes are de-stemmed and macerated on the skins for eight to 10 days with regular pumping-over (but no punch-downs). The wines are aged in approximately 25% new oak.